Seals, wet ends and variable speed drives — diagnosed before anything is quoted. $150 service call across Twinsburg, Solon, Hudson and the Route 91 corridor.
Hayward pumps across the pad, including the Super Pump, TriStar and MaxFlo families, and the older Hayward pumps still running on plenty of pools here.
A $150 service call covers up to the first hour of diagnosis or repair, and on many pump calls that hour is the whole job.
On authorization, plainly: we are not a Hayward Authorized Service Center. We service, repair and replace Hayward equipment as ordinary work on equipment you own, and we will not imply otherwise. If your pump is still under manufacturer warranty, warranty repairs generally have to go through the manufacturer's own service network to keep coverage intact — tell us its age when you call and we will say so, because it is not in your interest for us to take a paid repair Hayward would have covered. The fuller explanation is on Hayward pool heater repair.
Much of what goes wrong is not brand-specific, and the full symptom-to-cause index for any pump is on pool pump repair. The short version:
Usually the shaft seal. A wearing part, the commonest pump repair there is, and time-sensitive: water past the seal works into the motor, so replaced promptly it is cheap and left leaking it becomes a motor.
The pump has begun to cavitate, drawing air as well as water. Nearly always a restriction rather than a pump fault: a low water level, a blocked skimmer or pump basket, a partly closed valve. Left running it erodes the impeller.
Bearings. Worth calling early, because a bearing that seizes usually takes the motor with it.
Capacitor, or a seized shaft. One is inexpensive; the other is a motor.
The breaker doing its job. A failing motor drawing too much current, water in the motor or wiring, or a degraded bond. Do not keep resetting it.
An air leak on the suction side: lid o-ring, a drain plug, a union, or a water level too low for the skimmer.
A pool pump shaft seal removed from the pump
Two things worth knowing if yours is a variable speed Hayward.
The drive changes the failure profile. A variable speed pump carries motor-drive electronics, which a single-speed motor does not — so drive faults, communication faults and sensitivity to supply voltage all enter the picture. A drive fault is not automatically a new pump: some are the drive, some are the wiring or a corroded bond, and some are a communication problem with a controller.
And the drive hates water. This is the most useful line on the page: a weeping shaft seal on a variable speed pump is urgent in a way it never was on an old single-speed, because the electronics above and beside it are far less tolerant of moisture than an induction motor was. A seal that would have been a "next month" job on a Super Pump of twenty years ago is a "this week" job now.
Hayward pumps usually sit under Hayward automation. Which means a pump that will not respond to a schedule, runs at the wrong speed, or appears dead may have a controller or communication problem rather than a pump problem — see pool automation. We check that relationship rather than assuming the pump.
A rust stain on the pad beneath a pool pump motor, from a weeping shaft seal
The commonest thing we fix on a pool where somebody else fitted a variable speed pump.
A variable speed pump needs a speed set for each task, and getting it wrong produces faults that appear elsewhere:
Heating cycle too slow → the heater's flow-switch refuses and the heater will not fire.
Sanitising cycle too slow → a salt cell reports no flow and stops producing, surfacing later as a green pool.
Backwash at filtration speed → the backwash stirs debris instead of carrying it out. See pool filter repair.
Prime speed too low → it will not prime, or cavitates trying.
None of those is a broken component. Full detail on variable speed pool pumps.
Federal efficiency rules mean single-speed pumps can no longer be sold new for most in-ground pool applications, so if your single-speed Hayward has died the like-for-like replacement is not on the shelf. The replacement is a variable speed pump — more upfront, considerably less to run, and a real commissioning job.
If yours is still repairable, repairing it is often the right call. But the replacement decision is coming, and it is far better made in April as a planned purchase than in July with a green pool and no pump.
“M&G has serviced our in ground pool for the past 10+ years. Seasonal opening & closing, replacing heaters, pumps and a number of aggravating repairs that Matt & his crew have handled correctly at a fair price. Recommend highly.”
Tell us what it is doing and we will tell you what we think it is.
A pump volute full of water that gets cold enough splits, so a close has to winterize properly — blow out the lines, drain and purge the volute rather than assuming it self-drains. Freeze damage is a replacement rather than a repair, and it is not a warranty matter, because it follows from how the pool was closed.
On a variable speed pump the drive dislikes standing water and condensation as well, so closing down properly covers the electronics and not only the wet end.
It is also why so many pumps fail at the spring opening rather than during the season: seals dry and take a set over five idle months, capacitors give up sitting unused, and anything left holding water has had its chance to freeze.
A dried drip trail under a pool pump motor
We service Hayward across the pad — Hayward pool heater repair, which also decodes the common Hayward heater fault codes.
We also work on Pentair, Jandy, Sta-Rite, Fluidra and Zodiac: Pentair pool pump repair, everything else on pool equipment repair, and the full list on brands we service.
Products we install carry the full manufacturer's warranty, which varies by manufacturer and generally runs between one and three years. We do not offer a separate workmanship guarantee, and nothing on this page should be read as one.
A pool equipment pad with pump, filter and heater
M & G Pools services in-ground pools exclusively. We do not service, repair or supply equipment for above-ground pools, and we do not service hot tubs or spas.
No. We service, repair and replace Hayward equipment as ordinary work on equipment you own, and we have done for years — but we hold no authorization from Hayward and we will not imply otherwise. If your pump is still under manufacturer warranty, warranty repairs generally have to go through the manufacturer's own service network to keep coverage intact; tell us its age when you call and we will tell you straight.
Usually the shaft seal, which is a wearing part and the most common pump repair there is. If yours is a variable speed pump it is more urgent than it would have been on an old single-speed, because the drive electronics are far less tolerant of moisture than an induction motor was — so a seal replaced promptly stays a cheap repair.
Not necessarily. Some drive faults are the drive itself, some are the electrical supply or wiring, some are a corroded bond, and some are a communication problem with the controller — Hayward pumps usually sit under Hayward automation, so that relationship is worth checking before condemning the pump.
That points at the controller or the communication between it and the pump rather than the pump itself. It can also be a speed assigned to that cycle that the pump or another device will not accept. Either way it is usually a settings or communication fix rather than a part.
Generally not. Federal efficiency rules mean single-speed pumps can no longer be sold new for most in-ground applications, so the replacement is a variable speed pump. If your existing single-speed is still repairable, repairing it is often the right call — but the replacement is coming, and April is a much better time to plan it than July.
